Monday, July 6, 2009

The coffee works great here.

I figured out why I do not want to blog lately - I despise sitting in front of a computer! After all this time slaving away in front of a computer for the man, I physically recoil when the thought of sitting down inside and typing on this damn electronic box crosses my mind! I want to be outside, with friends or sitting at my favorite coffee bar here in town (yes, they have those here) watching the locals and tourists pass by. In the past I felt an overwhelming need to document everything. I would look around me, intensely, desperately trying to catalog every smell, color, person, etc. in order not to forget the moment. I would stand amidst beauty forcing my mind to remember it all, "not to forget." I've realized lately that there is no need to journal in my head, to catalog every sight, sound and smell .... but instead to live it while it is there. I remember standing in a castle in the countryside of London, making commands unto my mind in such an urgent manner that I was causing myself to miss FEELING the sensation of my surroundings. Today, I am happy to report that I am LIVING the moment. I do not need a picture or detailed photographic mental snapshot or written story to remember or encapsulate the moment, for it is in me, around me, of me. It is a beautiful feeling I feel; one that is hard to put into words. But just know, dear Reader, that I feel a sense of being and peace I have sought for quite some time. I still have my doubts and worries, these bastards will be with me for a while, waiting for the moment to butt in and bother me, but for now they are resting in the caverns of my mind as my physical being enjoys the ride.

Okay, enough of the wishy washy mental stuff. This past weekend I celebrated Independence Day on Isla Ometepe - an island not too far from here. It was the Independence of our nation, but for me, it brought independence of a more spiritual and intrinsic nature. Here's the story ...

On Friday, Sara (med student from U of Mass), Erin (my Nica BFF), the German (aka Mike, aka Erin's Nica BF), and American Steve (aka Stephen from Raleigh, NC) departed for Isla Ometepe. I visited Isla Ometepe back in March, and spent 3.5 hours ascending Volcano Concepcion. It takes 10 hours total to ascend the full mofo. This time, my mission was NO LONG HIKES in the humid jungle! We caught a cab from Casa Oro, a hostel where we've been catching the surfing bus to Playa Maderas. Some confusion and frustration occurred because we reserved and paid for an air-conditioned mini-van to take us to San Jorge, where we would board the ferry. This mini-van was in Managua - two hours away - when we were supposed to depart. This is Nican time, where everything is done eventually, give or take thirty minutes to two hours. We eventually got two taxis, and paid a few bucks extra for A/C. We made for San Jorge, and arrived just in time for our ferry. As we exited the taxi, some local man tried to tell us we missed the 2:30 ferry and would have to wait for the next one. I thought he was helpful. He then tried to sell me on staying at some hotel. Erin and German checked with the ticket box and found out that we were on time for the ferry. Turns out the man lied so he could have time to work on me for that hotel of his. We ran to the ferry and boarded just in time. The ride to the island was choppy. Steve, Sara and I stood outside on the deck, and took turns getting soaked by the waves.

From right to left:
Ilka (from Sweden), Heather (from MA), Sara (also from MA),
German (Mike, from Germany) and I.



We arrived in Moyolgapa, the port stop on Isla Ometepe. After being beseiged by taxi drivers, we found a mini-van that would take us to the little town of Merida. The drive to Merida was bumpy, rural, rustic, and so very pretty. The air reeked of mota (weed) in Merida, but we could not see any smoke. Our driver told us he did not smell it. Must just be the air. We arrived at a hostel, and after surveying the place, decided to treat ourselves to a weekend stay at a hotel with A/C. We had the taxi driver take us up the street (if you can call it that) to Hotel Omaja. Hotel Omaja is a splendid place with little cabins and an open-air bar/reception/restaurant. We were the only guests, and were able to get a little cabin with five beds, A/C, and "warm water showers" lol. We arrived just before dark on Friday, and proceeded to have dinner. We ordered two bottles of Flora de Cana Gran Reserve and Coca-Cola (thanks Erin!) and played "Two truths one lie" while eating hamburgers. The power went out (or did they turn it off on us? haha) so we headed back to our cabin and spent the rest of the night singing songs and talking on our porch. The next morning we set off by horseback for the Casacada (waterfall). I fell in love with a Palamino-colored horse and claimed it for my ride, leaving poor Steve with a small, old white horse. It took us 1.5-2 hours to ascend the volcano, at which we reached a point where we had to dismount and walk the rest of the 1 kilometer to the waterfall. The air is thick and humid. The climb is not so bad, but the thick humid air makes me feel claustophobic; like I cannot catch a good breath. We reach the waterfall and it is great. Smaller than I expected, what with living in Yosemite and it's grandiose falls, but still splendid. We all jump into the little pool below the cascada for picture time. On our descent, we run into Heather (another med student staying at the other house) and her boyfriend. They climbed the whole thing and I am not for a minute jealous of them, lol. When we get back to our horses, we do a swap. Steven gets Sara's horse, which is the second largest, Sara takes mine, and I get old white fart. But, to my surprise, old white fart is actually faster than he let on. The whole ascent was filled with Stephen crying out "Ya!" as he tried in vain to get old whitey to gallop, or hell, even canter. Old Whitey is just awnry is all. After kicking Erin's horse (with me on him) when she got too close, I steered Old Whitey to the back. Once he was by himself, he rode well. He rode fast on command, and was easy to steer. He was kinda like me - with attitude. Horses have a lead they like to follow. For example, German's horse liked to be leader, and the second-biggest horse liked to follow him. The third biggest horse (the palomino) liked to trail Erin's horse (who was a mommy and had an adorable colt that followed her the whole trail). My horse liked to run by himself. He would gallop at full speed upon my command, until we got too close to the bigger horses. He would then slow down and would not speed up for all the "ya" and kicks in the gut in the world. When the other two horses got too close, he would start cantering slowly, waiting for me to okay it or give the command to go faster. Needless to say, I loved galloping on that horse. It is such a rush.

We got back to the hotel and ate lunch. Sara and I then enjoyed a nice siesta. Dinner followed, and we all sang (and prob irritated the hotel staff) patriotic songs, like This Land is Your Land and our National Anthem. During the day I lamented the lack of fireworks, as it would be my first Fourth of July without them. The owner of the hotel, an expat American, surprised us all by lighting off Nican made fireworks. Without warning, they went off, scaring and surprising us all. It was nice to see them though. More rum and card games followed into the night. It was a great night. We went back to the porch late and talked some more. About midnight we all shuffled to bed.

The next day we had breakfast and more interesting convo, as we discussed history (Steve is a high school history teacher) and politics. Next came the bill. We have not paid for anything yet, mind you, and the hotel has been keeping a tab for us. The tab was not so much a sticker shock as we thought, though we all spent double what we had originally planned. Luckily the hotel accepted credit cards. The weekend was well worth it. We stopped at a little lagoon thing on our way back to the port town. We thought it would be a natural lagoon, but it seemed more man-made. The locals say the water is healing. It felt good on my massive amount of bug bites, though I am not sure if it is healing. The bugs here seem to get through the 100% DEET we are all wearing. Afterwards, Sara, Steve and I boarded the taxi for the ferry and German and Erin stayed behind for a day or two more.

I didn't take any pictures. This camera (an old gift from you know who) seems to hate me. Last time I was here I could not take enough pics because the memory card was too small. This time I planned ahead - bringing mom's card reader and frequently uploading pics to my computer. This time, the batteries will not stay charged. Others took many pics and I will have to accumulate them all and post.

Love you all and I will try to write more later this week. I drank some frappuccino today so this helped contribute to this long update. :D

Thursday, July 2, 2009

No feel like bloggy-bloggy

Hola mis companeros. Have not felt like blogging lately. Have been enjoying the days of nothingness. Had class again last night and I really enjoy teaching the adults. They WANT to learn, unlike the kids. Yup, I did not enjoy my time teaching the children of the Biblioteca Movil. Actually, correction - it's not really the kids of the Biblioteca, but a program which this lady Dyani has set up. It's more like an after-school program where the kids go and learn English. Because it's so voluntary and outside of the boundaries and confines of "school," there is a lack of respect and attention from the students. I was able to wrestle away some attention, respect and work from the kids, but after only a hour and a half with them I was beyond exhausted.

Have a bit of a stomach ache right now. Will update more later.

Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Day What?

I think it's Day 9. I must decide if I will continue to live at Salvadora's soon, as I only paid her up to ten days in advance. Need to pay some more. Pros: Good family, safe, own bathroom, clean, meals prepared. Cons: Far from rest of town, no A/C, very likely able to find similar accommodations for cheaper or better for same price. Breakfast and lunch are good, but at dinner it's the same old same old: Gallos pintos (rice and beans) and cheese, a salad, and no meat. I might be better off buying my own meals. Will think about this later.

City-wide power outage for the past two hours. Luckily, water stays on at my house even when the power is out - unlike the rest of the group's house. Add that to the Pros list of Salvadora's. My beloved internet place can provide internet on their backup generator, but not A/C. Also, would like a hot shower at some point in near future. Cold showers arent too bad later in day, when it is hot out and the cold water is inviting. But, in the morning, I am beginning to hate it. The water is very cold, unlike later in the day when it has been heated to cool in the pipes by the sun.

Off to go volunteer at Biblioteca. Class last night was a success. Will write more later.

xxxxxx (kiss kiss kiss ...)

Sunday, June 28, 2009

In an Infinity Pool with a Cheeseburger is the only way to live

Yesterday was a very tiring day. I had to sleep in, eat freshly prepared eggs, and swim in one of the three infinity pools at Pelican Eyes - San Juan's luxury resort/hotel. Then, if you can believe it, Erin made me eat some of her delicious cheeseburger, as we sat poolside. What a betch! Photo shoot in the pool with Erin, Heather and Michael the German was grueling as well. I tried to do some work by reading in the lounge chair near the pool, but again the group decided to antagonize and exhaust me by moving the festivities to a shaded cabana area complete with soft pillows. Of course, to my chagrin, interesting conversation ensued.

Next, as if all this merriment was not enough displeasure, I went home and sang in the shower; danced around naked in the room while playing Michael Jackson on repeat in honor of his Honor, and then had to eat an avocado salad! The horror!

On my way to una casa de Sara Pomares, where my friends live, I friggen had to buy an ice cream cone. Later, at the Iguana Bar, I was forced to converse and dance in the sand with an attractive Australian boy.

I CANNOT TAKE THIS ANYMORE!~


Ok, was that overkill? ;-D

Tomorrow though I do need to get back to (a little bit more) of a system. I will start teaching my first class of adult students. My OWN class - no others to look to for support/bail-out, etc. Haha Excited and nervous. But they will be beginner speakers and from what everyone tells me that have been volunteer English teachers, the adult classes - while not as fun per se as teaching/playing with kids - are more rewarding. The adult students are very eager and hungry to learn, and are very grateful for that which they do. I will teach one class of 15 students on Monday and Wednesday nights, from 6-8 pm. On Tuesdays and Thursdays I hope to tutor/help out at the Biblioteca in the morning, at about 9:30, or in the late afternoon. I'll have to figure out when I can venture out to the Nican school just outside of town, near the farm I stayed at in March. Erin and Heather want to join me on these days. Erin and I visited the school on Tuesday and had a blast (attempting to) teach the children Steal the Bacon. With how hot it is here, and all the dust, it is truly amazing how the children keep their white uniforms so crisp, clean and bright, and their blue uniform pants dust and dirt free!

Well, off to the pool now. Tried to get a cell phone today but the two places in town are closed, on account of it being Sunday. I will definitely go manana. I thought there were more places in town that sold phones, but turns out there are many places that sell extra minutes but not the actual initial phone or account.

Love and miss everyone! xxxxxxx

Saturday, June 27, 2009

Picture Post!

Pictures! Thrown up in no particular order, but I have added some captions so this should help. :D


Classroom at Biblioteca Movil.
Children are making Father's Day cards
.
Father's Day is June 24th in Nica.


Outside of the Biblioteca Movil - a non-profit library and one of the places where I will be teaching English.


After-Party for the kids and family at Smokey's. Organized by the amazing Dyani, a young American here working with the Biblioteca.

Stairs up to my floor and room.


One of my typical Nican meals - fish, rice and beans (or, when together, gallos pinto), and plantains.

Outside of my dormitorio (bedroom)
MY BED



CLEAN WATER JUGS AT MI CASA



LAGOON NEAR MASAYA



MAN ASSEMBLING JANSPORT BACKPACK AT MASAYA MARKET



From THE DAILY UGLY Collection
Wherein Erin and I pose for the day's picture of ugly

Restaurant at the Lagoon

More Daily Ugly

Surfing makes for sore muscles

Saturday ... what day are we on? The heat has severely gotten to me right about now. I yearn for a dark, air-conditioned room away from the sunlight and heat. I am still having a great time, but today I am missing some creature comforts of first-world living.

Yesterday Erin and I caught a $4 bus from the hostel Casa del Oro to Playa Maderas - the surfing beach. There were lots of surfers, from beginners to advanced, on the bus with us. We met Steven from CT, Michael from Germany, Mark (location not remembered), Ilka from Sweden, and Aidan from some northeast state. As Erin pointed out on her blog, when remembering or introducing someone, we have all come to do so as: 1. Name and 2. hometown, followed sometimes by what they are doing here, as in med student, volunteer, English teacher, Spanish-language student, etc.

The bus ride there is interesting. You are basically in the back of this open-aired truck thing with two benches, and racks for surfboards. The ride is bumpy, but scenic as the truck trollops through swampland on a dirty, rocky dirt road. The scenery is a mix of trashland, tourist hostels/surf camps, and very poor and rustic farm homes.

Once we get to Playa Maderas, Erin and I attempt to ask the locals about the location of my new Australian friends' abode .... la casa del "Don" - the house of the Don. No, not Don as in Donald, but Don as in a Godfather like name/status.

More later .... need to go stretch my legs for a bit.

Friday, June 26, 2009

Michael Jackson is Dead! and other stories from Nica...

It's 11:37am and I am sitting in my favorite A/C internet cafe in SJDS. :) About to catch a bus from an awesome hostel to Playa Maderas - the surfing beach. A few days ago I met some Australianos on a surfing expedition for a month here in Nica. They offered to give me some surfing lessons so we'll see if Erin (my Texan friend) and I can find them at the beach. If not, we'll rent a board from the man down there and find some other people to con - I mean, ask - into giving us some lessons and tips.

I'm a little nervous about returning to Playa Maderas without having had some practice in between (Playa Maderas was the first, and only, time I have surfed, back in March). But, practice is the only way to learn so away I go!

Yesterday was a busy day. Woke up early (and a bit hungover from the previous night's festivities, at the Festival de San Juan and because of the Australians! lol) and ran down to the school where we were to catch the bus. Really need to get a phone now that one of the Texans has one ... will make things much easier and more dignified! hahaha. Skipped breakfast in my haste, only to wait for one hour at the restaurant for the rest of the bus group (others not in our group went) to arrive and for us to depart. We weren't sure when the whole group would arrive so I was sort of stuck there with no food options. Yes, we were at a restaurant but wasn't sure if I had time to order food to go. Was going to order fruit, but the "fruit was not there yet." Not sure where the hell the restaurant buys its fruit, but apparently it was not there at the time! Flagged down an ice cream cart and enjoyed a delicious pseudo-Drumstick. Two Americans joining us on the bus - Eric from Seal Beach, CA and Mike from Hawaii - had some bananas and kindly gave me one.

The drive to Masaya was long and hot! There were approx. 15 of shoved into a van, going as fast as it could, which amounted to about only 45 mph! No A/C and sticky people made for an interesting trip. But, here in Nica, we are all getting used to being sticky, sweaty, and hot.

Once in Masaya we stopped at the Visitors' Center and viewed some exhibits to learn about the history of the area. The volcano is still active and has been since at least the 500s. The indigenous people believed a "Mother Hag" governed the volcano and would come down to dispense advise. They sacrificed females and young female children to appease her.

As for Volcano Masaya itself, there is a huge crater near the top of the volcano. The volcano does not look like the volcanos we are used to seeing in images. Instead, it is more inverted, with the looking points at the top of the crater/valley, and the active volcano below on the floor. I took some pics, but you cannot see much as the smoke and sulfur cloulds the air (and singes the nostrils! ahahaha). Near the top of a hill overlooking the crater and volcano is a large metal cross. It was erected in the 1100s (or so) by a priest, as he believed the crater/volcano to be the "mouth of Hell." Mom - make sure to tell Nick about that one, as he should get a kick out of me standing at "the Hellmouth."

Volcano Masaya

Next we hopped back into the van, desperately needing to stop for lunch before heading to the Masaya Market.

more to come .... need to publish and save in case of internet failure.

Ok, back now on Saturday. Where did I leave off ...

Oh, yes. Lunch .... starving, hot passengers in a crowded van make for a grumpy group. Imagine our delight as we pull into a parking lot with two dining options: Crazy Pollo and Papa John's Pizza! I don't think I, or a group of people, have ever been so excited to see a Papa John's! And ... it had air conditioning!! We all happily ambled up the steps to the air conditioned dining area of Papa John's. Although both places were fast food-ish, there were waiters, a hostess, and the general set-up was that of a sit-down restaurant. Our eyes were bigger than our stomachs, and we ordered lots and lots of cheesy goodness. Turns out, before departing, the school we were travelling with rhapsodized about the "authentic Nican lunch" we would be having, including the Nican rice and beans dish. Truth: we are all pretty much sick of the rice and beans entree - it's been on our plates for almost every single meal. Luckily, Scarlett, one of the Texans, is pretty fluent in Spanish and was able to politely communicate our dismay in that sort of lunching option. So there we were in old Masaya, on our way to the old flea market, sitting in a franchised pizza place and so much happy for it!

Our Papa John's Feast


Next, we stopped at Masaya. This place is a maze of a flea market, with so many knick knacks and chakskis. Thing is, the same chakskis are sold at each stand. They look hand-crafted, and perhaps they were in some part of the world, but definitely not by the Nicans selling them. Turns out Nicans don't really have an indigenous product/craft to capitalize on, save for their coffee. (More on the amazing coffee at some point). I had run out of money at this point, not having budgeted enough for the bus ride and meal and shopping. Probably a good thing, seems how I would have left with a lot of needless junk, and I purchased souveneirs during my March trip.

I despised the hungry look in the merchant's eyes as entered the market. I like to browse in peace, and here they ascend on you non-stop. You pick up one item and three vendors will come up to you with a barrage of similar items, all trying to yell prices at you in Spanglish. A "guide" approached us as we wandered off into shopping groups of three. They had an "official" badge, and helped barter down prices and led us through the maze of shops. We figured they would each want a tip at the end for their services, but were shocked when our guide tried to tell Gill, Erin and I that his services cost $10. Yes, ten US Dollars. We told him we'd tip him but nothing said he cost that much. Of course he didn't, but they all try at times here to play us tourists for a mark.

We then left for a trip to a nearby lagoon, where our driver and two other passengers left us so they could go to Managua and catch a plane. We ordered drinks and conversed on a patio restaurant while the rain thundered down around us. After 1.5 hours, we were a pretty anxious and irritated group. And, for once - a COLD group! Yes, we were actually cold and not sweating buckets. Long story a little more short - the bus came back and we all made it home, sleepy and ready for bed.

I laid in bed that night, under the breeze of my fan and in the clutches of my pretty mosquito net/tent. For a bit, I forgot that I was in a bed in Nica, far from home and the usual. It was a nice little jaunt into comfort. :)